JAPANESE CLASSICAL COSTUME AT THE IMPERIAL HOUSEHOLD

NYOUBOUSYOUZOKU (costume for a Courtlady-in-waiting)

—–[‘•‘©ŒγŽp

The Takata Institute of Japanese Imperial Classical Costume@


@Formerly at the IMPERIAL HOUSEHOLD of Japan, women had worn a combination of costumes called NYOUBOUSYOUZOKU since around the 11th century (the midlle of the HEIAN ERA of Japan). This was used by the dignitaries of the imperial house. This was a variation of CHOUFUKU in around the 9th century worn by woman-in-waiting at Court.Since the latter half of the 19th century(the MEIJI ERA),it began to be called ITSUTSUGINU, KARAGINU, MO [ITSUTSUGINU(a costume consisiting of five suits of robes to be layered),KARAGINU(an exotic outermost costume),MO(a skirt style of costume with a long train)].Nowadays it is usually called JUUNIHITOE(twelve layers and HITOE),but that is not the proper name.Since modern times it has been used only for the ceremony (an enthronement and a wedding ceremony,and so on)at the IMPERIAL HOUSEHOLD as a costume for a formal occation.NYOUBOUSYOUZOKU consists of KARAGINU, UWAGI, UCHIGINU(glossed robe), ITSUTSUGINU, HITOE, MO, HAKAMA, HIOUGI. KARAGINU means an exotic costume,which was originally a short robe like a vest without sleeves.Its collar is folded back outwards,which is unusual in Japanese clothes.The robes from UWAGI to HITOE are basically the same in style and the outermost robe to be layered among them is called UWAGI.UCHIGINU means a silk robe which is glossed with a wooden mallet on a block board(which is called KINUTA).ITSUTSUGINU means a set of robes consisiting of five of robes with which they wore WATAIRE(robes sewn with floss silk)for winter and lined robe called AWASE or unlined robe sewn with raw silk for summer.The number of robes to be layered is not always five suits,by heat and cold they were varied.In "EIGA-MONOGATARI",one of the Japanese histories,it was described that one woman wore twenty suits of robes to be layered.But since the 12th century (the end of the HEIAN ERA),five suits were appropriate for ITSUTSUGINU.Under the ITSUTSUGINU,an unlined robe called HITOE was always worn.MO was originally a kind of skirt but as the robe became larger and larger,it became a ceremonious and decorative style of a trailing train.HAKAMA was originally a pair of inner-trousers,but it became longer and refined in accordance with change of MO.
@Regarding the material of each robe,FUTAE-ORIMONO(double technique brocade)was used for the outer material of KARAGINU and UWAGI,to be worn by women of high rank.AYA(monochrome figured silk)was used for the outer material of UCHIGINU, ITSUTSUGINU and HITOE.
@UKI-ORIMONO was used for OOGOSHI (rear loins of MO)as well as for HIKIGOSHI(a thin belt width of train to be trailed)while AYA were used for train-itself.
@SEIGOU (silk woven elaborately)and HIRAGINU(plain woven-silk)have been used for HAKAMA.



The item of NYOUBOUSYOUZOKU

KARAGINU
Cloth@dark purple
FUTAE-ORIMONO(double technique brocade)
ground pattern@@a pattern made of wisteria's parallel line crossed over
upper pattern@@ a pattern made of butterflies

Lining@light purple
AYA(monochrome figured silk)
small size of a clouded lozenge pattern

UWAGI
Cloth@green
FUTAE-ORIMONO(double technique brocade)
ground pattern@@a flowery pattern created by laying out the leaves disgonally
upper pattern@@ a circular pattern made of two long-tailed roosters(which symbolizes a long life)

Lining@green
AYA(monochrome figured silk)
a lozenge pattern separated from each other

UCHIGINU (glossed robe)
Cloth@crimson
AYA(monochrome figured silk)
a circular pattern

Lining@crimson
HIRAGINU(plain woven-silk) no pattern

ITSUTSUGINU (These were costumes consisiting of five suits of robes to be layered.But in the HEIAN ERA,a layered style was developed for purposes of adjusting the layers of robes in accordance with temperature of the season.)

the first
Cloth@dark red
AYA(monochrome figured silk)
a pattern made of arabesque in the lengthwise frame

Lining@light crimson
AYA(monochrome figured silk)
a lozenge pattern separated from each other

the second
Cloth@light red
AYA(monochrome figured silk)
a pattern made of arabesque in the lengthwise frame

Lining@light crimson
AYA(monochrome figured silk)
a lozenge pattern separated from each other

the third
Cloth@light green
AYA(monochrome figured silk)
a pattern made of arabesque in the lengthwise frame

Lining@light crimson
AYA(monochrome figured silk)
a lozenge pattern separated from each other

the fourth
Cloth@green
AYA(monochrome figured silk)
a pattern made of arabesque in the lengthwise frame

Lining@light crimson
AYA(monochrome figured silk)
a lozenge pattern separated from each other

the fifth
Cloth@dark green
AYA(monochrome figured silk)
a pattern made of arabesque in the lengthwise frame

Lining@light crimson
AYA(monochrome figured silk)
a lozenge pattern separated from each other

HITOE (unlined inner robe at the bottom)
crimson
AYA(monochrome figured silk)
a lozenge pattern separated from each other

MO
@The train of MO has a design made of pine trees are drawn on the white silk of a ground pattern made of three parallel lines crossed over.
@
HAKAMA
crimson
HIRAGINU(plain woven-silk)@no pattern

HIOUGI
@HIOUGI has a design made of pine trees are drawn on the folding fan made of thin boards of japanese cypress.





—–[‘•‘©@‘³@COLOR OF LAYERED COSTUME STYLE@(the part of the sleeves)

@from the right

@
KARAGINU@dark purple
@
UWAGI@@ green
@
UCHIGINU@crimson
@
ITSUTSUGINU
@@
the first@ dark red
@@
the second@light red
@@
the third @light green
@@
the fourth@green
@@
the fifth @dark green
@
HITOE@ @@@crimson









@The delicate changes in nature during the four seasons endowed the Japanese with a fine and sensitive mind.It can be seen clearly in the Japanese costumes from ancient times,in which the beautiful tones of the seasons are reflected in the color scheme of costumes.
@In the 10th century (the midlle of the HEIAN ERA of Japan),the costumes of the court nobles became free and loose-bodied in the transition from a Chinese style to a Japanese one.And with a style of building made suitable for summer,a layered style was developed for purposes of adjusting the layers of robes in accordance with temperature of the season,or expressing the charm of elegant composition.First of all,they appreciated the color combination of cloth and lining,so that they put a name to the combination of these two monochromes.Or they determined an appellation of the new color for layered style with sensitivity to beauty,by which they could communicate with each other.And then,they extended this method from color combination of cloth and lining of a single robe,to the color arrangement of several layered robes.



The Takata Institute of Japanese Imperial Classical Costume

@We were estabrlished in 1346.Since,Royal Family's classical costumes of an enthronement and a wedding ceremony,and so on,at THE IMPERIAL HOUSEHOLD in Japan, have been made by us even now.And at the request of The National Museum, we have been investigating and restoring historical costumes, textiles and classical furnitures.
@The color scheme and patterns of Japanese classical costumes of an enthronement and a wedding ceremony,and so on,at THE IMPERIAL HOUSEHOLD were originally created by us.


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The Takata Institute of Japanese Imperial Classical Costume
The contents of our work


›@At the request of The National Museum we have been investigating and restoring historical costumes,textiles and classical furnitures.
@Now we are inviting a plan to exhibit our Japanese classical costume at the IMPERIAL HOUSEHOLD in Japan or foreign countryII

›@At the request of The National Museum we have been repairing historical costumes.(Japanese KIMONO,YOROI KABUTO and so on)

›@We have been giving a lecture about Japanese classical costume at the IMPERIAL HOUSEHOLD on the big stage.(a stage performance of putting on them)
@Now we are inviting a plan to giving our lecture about Japanese classical costume at the IMPERIAL HOUSEHOLD in Japan or foreign countryII

›@We have been giving an expert opinion about Japanese historical costumes,textiles and classical furnitures.

›@We have been investigating and restoring historical loom and techniques to weave the ancient (around the 8th century [the NARA ERA of Japan])textiles since 1991.

›@We have been publishing about uCOLOR OF LAYERED COSTUME STYLEv(The specimen of the color@|@mounting the dyeing-weaving silk on the pasteboard)

›@The achievements of The Takata



Œ©o‚΅
@The Takata Company of Japanese Imperial Classical Costume's restoring and making goods



(These textiles have been being used at the IMPERIAL HOUSEHOLD in Japan
since the 11th century)








@The Takata Institute of Japanese Imperial Classical Costume

@@8-14-9 Ginza Chuo-ku Tokyo JAPAN
@@TEL@+ 81-3-3541-1107@@
@@FAX@+ 81-3-3541-1108

@@http://www.takata-courtrobe.co.jp/en1.htm
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